Sharpening & Tips

• Adjustments
• Holding & Using
• How to make a Sharpening Block
• Sharpening

Adjusting the cutter on all Dave’s Shaves models
There are two ways to set up the blade or cutter relative to the sole. It may be either exposed equally side to side or one side may be set higher than the other (This is known as cocking the cutter). Cocking the cutter allows you to adjust the shaving thickness while you work without readjusting the blade. Simply move the shave laterally relative to the work piece to achieve a thicker or thinner setting. This is possible with a shave because it is a whittling tool, not a jointing tool(like a handplane).

New DS versions: Blade or cutter adjustments are made via adjustment of the allen screws located on the top- side of the shave. Loosen both brass retaining nuts slightly. Hold the blade against the shave to “bottom out” the blade. Adjust the blade to desired depth using the supplied allen wrench. Re-tighten the brass retaining nuts first by making up the slack on both sides then adding tension evenly across both sides.








Earlier DS versions: Unscrew the brass retaining nuts and carefully remove the cutter from the shave – it is sharp. Located in the mortises on either side of the throat, there are adjusting screws that support the blade. Use a Phillips head screwdriver to raise or lower these screws. Replace the cutter and check the amount of blade expo- sure. For a starting point, adjust the cutter so it is above the sole just about the thickness of a business card. For most shaving tasks, this is an aggressivesetting. Re-adjust and refine the setting to your liking. This initial set-up may take some trial and error to get it to your liking. The adjustment screws will index your established cutting depth for future blade removal/replacement.

Spokeshave blade adjustments & background
Original spokeshaves utilized a friction fit for blade retention and maintaining the depth of cut. The tangs were square in cross section. Three of the tang sides were parallel in profile (pictured below left). The fourth side (facing the center of the blade) was tapered, wider at the base than the tip. The result was that the two tangs had facing tapers, ideal for creating an effective wedging effect.

Original spokeshaves were not purchased "ready to use" (pictured above right). In that day, it was expected that the user would not only put an edge on the blade, but set the blade to its usable height as well as widen the mouth to their liking. All edge tools then were commonly offered in this “un-tuned” state. It was considered a subtle insult to the end user to perform these adjustments for them. Spokeshaves were received with their blades rather proud of their soles. Once the blades were fitted close to the users liking, fine adjustments were made by tapping the heel of the blade near the base of the tang to close the opening or tapping the tip of the tang to increase the opening.

If one desired a parallel exposure of the blade, (as used in a bench plane), continued adjustments were required for varying shaving thicknesses, unless one had a large quiver of pre-set spokeshaves. If only one shave was used, continued small adjustments were needed. In addition, tediously found settings were lost when the blade was removed for sharpening. Eventually, the blade/body interface would show wear and the blade edge can no longer be held above the height of the sole.

One way to correct this wear problem is to reduce the sole, which in effect artificially increases the opening height of the blade. This is an easy adjustment to make with a wood sole but more work with a metal or bone sole. The mouth would also then be in need of reopening. Another approach would be to reline the sides of the square holes in the shave body. You only have to reline the taper side. It doesn't take much, a thin wood shaving or a sliver of leather will do the trick. Eventually, the shave reaches a point where it no longer useable. I believe the users of the original shaves considered these tools to be expendable.

There is alternate way to set the blade that will reduce readjustments and thus help prolong the life of the tool. It is also compatible with the nature of the tool: spokeshaves are whittling tools, not small surfacing or jointing tools (planes).

Whittling tools are used to shape objects by first grossly wasting wood and then refining the shapes. They typically take "slivers" out of a workpiece, usually much narrower than the width of the cutting edge, in contrast to the broad "ribbons" produced by surfacing tools, which can be nearly as wide as their cutting edge. Whittling can generate chips in short or long lengths, in irregular or thin strips and can be used both finely and aggressively by the user. All without readjusting the blade.

This is accomplished by setting one side of the blade higher than the other. It does not have to be a great difference, 1/32" to 1/64" will do. This difference precludes readjusting in order to gain a slighter aggressive or finer setting. This set up is sometimes referred to as "cocking" the cutter or blade. One only needs to move the shave laterally relative to the path of the cut to increase or decrease the thickness of the chip. Finding the "sweet spot" after sharpening the blade is also made easier, one only needs to get close to the previous setting.

On the down side, because the chip does not have a parallel thickness, cocking the blade can, in theory, clog or "choke" the shave if it is moved too far laterally to the thinner side. In practice, this is rarely if ever encountered because of the relatively narrow width of the chip and slight difference in side to side blade heights.

Dave’s Shaves uses a jack screw system for indexing the blade height. Early models use screws under the blade and current shaves use a top-side accessible screws. The screw adjusters or "stops" are used because the blade has to bottom out to maintain its set. The brass knobs only hold the blade against these stops. Once the blade height is set to ones liking, the screws act as an index. It may take a little trial and error to get the blade height right, but if one sets the blade slightly cocked, chances are that readjustments won't be necessary. Remove the blade for sharpening and it will return to it’s previous familiar setting. I know professional chairmakers that have not readjusted their shaves for years.

Holding & Using the shave
The shave can be pushed or pulled. In general, pushing is recommended as it allows you get “behind” the tool to generate power. Pulling is recommended for long thin work pieces or when pushing is not an option. You will become comfortable with both methods but rely more upon one for general shaving. Regardless of technique you use, do not hold the shave as you would hold bicycle handlebars, keep your hands toward the center and let your fingers ride over the top of the area you are shaving.

To push the spokeshave, grip the tool from the middle of the body with your thumbs positioned low on the back near the cutter. Using your middle and index fingers along the top-front of the shave, pressure the sole against the workpiece. The amount of down force used on the sole is surprisingly light. For an example, if you were drawing with a pencil, use enough pressure to produce a bold line without breaking the pencil point.The remaining fingers just go along for the ride. Note: It is more important to have the sole maintain positive contact with the workpiece than it is to push down on the cutter itself. Practice the shaving stroke by placing just the sole in contact with the workpiece. Hold the cutter off the surface at first, then gradually lower the cutter into the surface as you proceed.You should feel the edge engage the wood, then continue cutting a uniform chip.


To pull the spokeshave (drawshaving), reverse the hand position. Your thumbs are positioned on the front face of the shave body and your index fingers are low behind the back of the cutter. Down pressure is generated with an upward roll of your wrists.

Whether you prefer to work standing at a vise or sitting at a shave horse, it is very important to have your workpiece firmly clamped. Practice using long strokes and large muscle groups for efficient shaving.





How to make a Sharpening Block
First cut out two rectangles (roughly 3" x 10") from the countertop.

The pieces of cut out material are glued back to back, (laminate sides facing out) and given a day to set.

Next the block (now about 1.5" thick) is trimmed squarely to 2.5" wide by 9" long. Rough or sharp edges are eased, then the exposed sides of the block were sealed with shellac or urethane. A smaller version can be made for the small blade (doubled block, 1.75" x 9").